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May 27, 2017

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Warhol Foundation collaborates with Nars on cosmetics

NEW YORK--Francois Nars had Andy Warhol coffee table books in his living room and Yves Saint Laurent in his closet growing up in the 1970s in the south of France.

"I always feel so terrible for the people who got born after that era because there was something really in the air that was unexplainable," the makeup legend said, lounging in the lobby of a Midtown hotel for a recent interview.

"There was something very, very free. Today, everything is so much more controlled and so much more prepared," he said.

Fear not, post-Baby Boomers. In this, the 25th anniversary year of Warhol's death, Nars' namesake company has taken on the pop icon's silvery Factory, silkscreened superstars and avant-garde films in a limited-edition cosmetic collection, exclusive to Sephora stores until Nov. 1.

It's the first time the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts has collaborated on cosmetics, and the 29-piece Nars line coincides with "Regarding Warhol: 60 Artists, 50 Years," an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art running through Dec. 31.

Michael Hermann, licensing director for the Warhol foundation, said it decided to venture into cosmetics with Nars because of the latter's "fearless, cutting-edge approach."

"For Warhol, makeup was an arrow in the quiver one could use to embody his democratic approach to beauty best embodied in his own words when he said, 'If everybody's not a beauty, then nobody is,'" Hermann explained.

Nars, who is in his late 40s and moved to New York in 1984, missed out on meeting Warhol, but has visited Andy's world in the past with his Chelsea Girls lip lacquer and other homages.

This time he went big with an Edie Sedgwick screen test on a mini metal film can for one gifty set. Lip glosses are packed into a soup can and bright greens and blues are intricately shaped into one of Warhol's famous self-portraits in an eye palette etched with the Andyism: "I believe in low lights and trick mirrors."

Nars has scaled back his runway work to a few designers he admires, his friend Marc Jacobs included. Working backstage in September, Nars created big Edie eyes for Jacobs' own '60s moment, a pop-inspired spring collection at New York Fashion Week.

"If Andy was still alive we probably would have met at a certain point and I would probably have photographed him for a book. We would have connected, definitely," said Nars, who remains creative director of Nars cosmetics, acquired in 2000 by Shiseido, and still shoots the company's ad campaigns.

Nars has worked on some of the fashion industry's most famous faces, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangalista and Naomi Campbell among them. He has taken photos for the industry's top magazines, produced several books of portrait art and is working on a book focused on Tahiti, where he owns an island.

Looking back, Nars said his fashion-forward mother, Claudette, was a "big, big influence."

"My mother and my two grandmothers, I was lucky to have three women around me growing up that were very special, very elegant woman, very beautiful women," he said. "They were my first step into the beauty world, let's say, and then the fashion world, of course."

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